W. Texas for T-giving, with kids? *UPDATE

B

Brisketexan

1,000+ Posts
Okay -- we just got the idea to do W. Texas for Thanksgiving, for a variety of reasons. (1) It gets us away from our extended family, which we need to do (we just need a break from the whole "in-laws" dynamic). (2) It's something we've never really done before -- neither one of us has been to Big Bend, haven't spent much time in the Davis Mountains, etc.

The kids are 6 and 4 (girl, then boy). What are some good things to do in the Davis Mountains and Big Bend region, with kids that age? The girl is a nature kid, and the boy is more into things mechanical (airplanes in particular), although he likes cool boy-type stuff -- spiders, that sort of thing.

And, where to stay? Of course, the Gage and the Indian Lodge are all booked up -- and that's all I really know in the area. Surely there's someplace with character -- cabins, fire rings, etc.? Of course, we are aware that we are coming to this somewhat late in the game, so our options might be limited -- perhaps even limited enough that we can't make it happen this year. But we'd like to try.

I really don't even know where to begin, so fire your thoughts at will.

EDIT -- got a recommendation for Prude Ranch. Talked to them, and it sounds like some affordable, old-fashioned, simple family fun. Trail rides, hay rides, marshmallow roasts around the campfire, etc., (dude ranch-ish, but the kids will eat it up, and I love those clear night skies) and of course, all the other activities and attractions in the area. Any thoughts on this place?
 
When I was a kid we would go camping in Big Bend National Park during Thanksgiving. If you're not up for camping there is a lodge in the park as well but I suspect it is probably booked as well. But you might luck out and at least get one night.

I've heard good things about the Prude Ranch but never stayed there. You can check the McDonald Observatory and see what their Star Party schedule is for the holidays. The kids would enjoy it. They are probably too young to enjoy the old fort in Ft. Davis.

If you visit the BB NP there is a lot of stuff that kids will like. Doing some short hikes and seeing the wildlife, kids usually get excited over lizards, birds, deer, and javelina. There is a big sandhill in Boquillas Canyon that is a relatively easy hike that is cool to climb up and run back down.

I wouldn't recommend driving from the Prude Ranch to visit Big Bend NP for just a day. It would be better to stay a day or so in the park if you want to visit it.
 
Okay, we've booked a stay at Prude Ranch. There's plenty to do that's kid-friendly, etc., but we're interested in other activities in the area. From the above reply and a map, it looks like Big Bend is not on the agenda (and honestly, at our kids' ages, they probably aren't up for the kind of major hiking the wife and I would like to do).

But what other area (Ft. Davis) activities should we do?

Davis Mountains State Park?
Balmorhea State Park?
Fort Davis (the town)?
Fort Davis (the fort)?
Marfa?

Again, just not familiar with that part of W. Texas, so all input is welcome.
 
balmorrhea is a short (30 min) drive from the town of fd. even in the winter, its worth an hour or two stopover. walk the perimeter of the pool, walk the canals, check out the little marsh observation area they built. usually best to stop on way in or out as its right off I10. as for the town, you pretty much nailed it. the observatory is a must, the fort is okay, marfa has the paisano and the lights. i have a feeling if youre staying on the dude ranch, youre not getting out much. they usually plan on enough activities to make that your one stop vacation. if you had picked the lodge at either park, or a hotel, you would have had more flexibility in your schedule. more stars than you'll ever see anywhere. watch out for antelopes.
 
This bears repeating....others have said it, but please:

Go to the McDonald Observatory one evening. We did it over Spring Break this past year, and it was one of the highlights of our Big Bend trip.

The "Star Party" is one of the most educational events I have ever attended. Very kid oriented, and plenty for them to be interested in. After the group show, you are free to roam the grounds and look through telescopes of all sizes, all of which are manned by volunteers, many of which are private enthusiasts who have brought their own telescopes to share with the public.

The visitor center has a great interactive center, and they do a very cool "view the sun" program indoors, showing live views of the sun on a screen.

During Spring Break (i.e. during daylight savings time) we arrived at the facility about 3:00 and stayed their until about 10:30 (with boys ages 8 and 10). Adjust your time based on fall schedule -- which of course will be based on the time of sunset, meaning it won't be as late a night for you.

As if you couldn't tell, I was very, very impressed by this University of Texas run facility. This is truly a state treasure that should be enjoyed.

In regard to your other questions:

Fort Davis State Park: eh....if you have time to kill, its not too bad....although probably won't thrill the kids very much.

Fort Davis - Town: Quaint little town, but again, not much to do other than browse some shops and catch a decent meal (better food is down in Alpine)

Davis Mountain State Park: Don't know how rugged a hike you are looking for, but there are some options there. Other than hiking, though, there isn't much. And the one we took was probably too much for a 4 and 6 year old. Heck, my 8 year old will tell you it was too much for him.

Marfa: Not worth the time, IMO.
 
You'd be surprised how much hiking 4 and 6 year olds are able to do. My family used to go out to Big Bend when I was younger. The first year we went the three kids were 8, 6, and 3. My little brother had to ride on my dad's shoulders from time to time, but he usually walked on his own. We used to go all over, and I don't remember anyone complaining too much.

You'll have a ton of fun. West Texas is a great place to visit.
 
Me and the family go out to the area you are talking about almost yearly for vacations, and we all love it out the there.
At Thanksgiving, it is going to be CROWDED out there. Youa r going to be suprised at how many folks go out there for the holidays. The only time worse is Spring Break.
Some random thoughts...
Fort Davis:
Davis Mountians State Park-Stop by for an hour or two. Drive to the top of Skyline drive and let the kids out to enjoy the mountian top views. Go by the Indian Lodge and visit the common rooms to get the flavor of the architcture and furnishing. You will want to return in the summer when its less crowded and you can get reservations. The kids love it in the summer cause they can use the pool. The Black Bear resturant in the Indian Lodge in very average and not worth a special stop.
Fort Davis National Historic Site-Spend a minimum of 2-3 hours. Take the full walking tour. Its a unique step back in time. My 9 year old son ended up actually enjoying the tour and seeing how the "soldiers" of the era lived.
Murphys Pizza-Nice little pizza place in town, great kid food.
The Limpia Hotel- Only upscale dining in town, wife loved it.
The Old Drugstore-Good comfort food directly across the street from the Limpia.
The Ice Cream Caboose-Directly across the street from the entrance to the fort. Kids will go nuts for it. Actual caboose they can climb around in, and serves the only Blue Bell in West Texas.
McDonald Observatory-A MUST! Do the Star Party! Dress very warm and bring blankets, it will get very cold in late November.

Balmorhea-the drive there from Fort Davis is very pretty, but you wont want to swim in November. I would highly recommend visiting just to see it, your kids will want to go back in the summer to swim. One one resturant in town called "La Cueva del Oso", serves good Mexican food.

Marfa-Park downtown by the Paisano Hotel and spend thirty minutes looking at the local shops in the hotel. Very expensive. Drive out one evening to view the Marfa lights after sundown east of town. Dont be fooled by the car headlights coming north from Presidio.

Alpine-Biggest town in the area. A few art galleries, only McDonalds in West Texas, home of Sul Ross State University. A visit to the Musuem of the Big Bend on the university campus would be worth it.

Spend one day driving from Fort Davis to Marfa, then south of Marfa through Pinto Canyon and the outskirts of Big Bend Ranch State Park to Presidio. Just outside of Presidio is Fort Leaton State Historic Site, a neat place for the kids to get out and explore. You will be taking the River Road, one of the best drives in Texas. Stop at the BIG HILL and look for the "Dom" rock. Then continue on to through Lajitis to Terlingua. Have lunch at the Starlight Theater in Old Terlingua. AWESOME place! Continue on to Big Bend. Take the Old Maverick Road to Santa Elena Canyon. Then take the Ross Maxwell Senic Drive to the Park Headquarters. Go up to the Basin and explore. Exit the park heading north to Alpine, stopping for dinner. Then back to Fort Davis. A big loop that can be done in a day. Any other questions, just ask.

If they ever build a Home Depot in Alpine or Fort Stockton, Im moving out there. I love that part of Texas.
 
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