Tree advice

T

TheFied

2,500+ Posts
I have 3 red oak trees that my builder put in 2 years ago. I asked for monterrey oaks but the builder didn't have any. It was red oaks or live oaks and I already have 15 native live oaks (not big ones).

One of the red oaks towards the top forks. Someone who knows more than I suggested picking one of the forks and cutting the other. He said that you want your tree to go straight up as much as possible. I waited until after August so that the sap beetle would be done. But August is well behind us now.

I have a picture of the tree. Thoughts from hornfans?

Trees2008001.jpg


Trees2008002.jpg


While I have your attention... I also have a Texas Persimmon that is growing sideways a bit and I want to cut off one of the stems. I have a picture of that below. How close to the ground should I cut it? I don't want to cut the whole thing but one of the basal stems.

Trees2008003.jpg
 
It's probably a good idea to take off one of the red oak branches to avoid the risk of a split trunk down the road. They look fairly symmetrical so I'd probably leave the tallest one. Also, I'd wait until Jan or Feb to prune oaks.

I think you can take off the persimmon right at ground level without a problem. I've never done it to a persimmon, but it's worked fine on other varieties. It might send up some shoots from the stump so you could consider leaving one or two that are growing at a better angle.
 
The Persimmon basal stem that I want to take off is the one that is going almost horizontal to the left. I will keep the others (that would leave 3 stems). I will cut it as close to the ground as possible and see how that goes.

Also, why wait until Jan/Feb to trim them?
 
Taking off one of the forks would be like 25%-30% of the tree and that is a lot of stress. My arborist wouldn't be happy at all about doing that.

All I know is that there are good forks (cable is worst case)and bad forks (will break off eventually even with a cable) and you should ask an arborist. I would really be surpirsed if it has anything to do with the tree being upright. It is all about the angle and intersection of the forks.

That is a VERY cool rock wall, BTW . . .
 
One the red oak, I would remove one of the two leads. As long as you paint the wound immediately after the cut (appears you have quite a few would dressings already, assuming that's what those black spots are), shouldn't be a big deal what time of the year you prune.

However, it's probably worth an arborist's consultation fee ($100+/-) to get proper advice on the oak and persimmon, esp. the oak since it's so young. I hired They Might Be Monkeys last winter to prune two large oaks (live and red) in my backyard...they did a great job.
 
First it depends where you're located. If in Austin, there are areas where the red oak is susceptible to oak wilt and oak decline. Next, it depends on which type of red oak it is...Texas Red Oak or other. When pruning, would contact a reputable nurseryman. For example, John Dromgoole of the Natural Gardener in Austin is a good source of info. Most of the large cities have Saturday AM garden shows. You might contact them on air.

I wouldn't prune the top branches to select one only. Some red oaks have multi trunks.
 
Pruning spray is not necessary on old cuts. It needs to be applied as soon as possible after making the cuts.
My opinion on the Red Oak is they put a poor specimen in your yard in the first place, and so you may end up battling just to keep it looking halfway decent. It may be a Shumard Red Oak, and it looks like you're in West Austin. That's a bad species (on top of the specimen issue) because of oak wilt. Paying for a certified arborist's opinion on the tree sounds like a good idea to me.
 
Sangre, thanks for your advice. Can you comment on what makes you think it is a poor specimen? I am not offended but interested in your feedback. Thanks!
 
The reason I think it's a poor specimen is due to the number of old cuts along the trunk (looking at the pruning spray spots. If the tree has been trying to grow more like a bush all its life, then I assume (with the caveat: I'm just another guy who's purchased trees, not a professional) it's a poor specimen.

I also know, without a doubt, that house builders don't bother to select only the finest specimens for their customers. No assuming is necessary on that point. You get what you get, and I have seen many newly planted trees that showed signs of being weak, damaged, or stunted. Not saying that is certain in your case, but the growth pattern of the tree raises my suspicion.
 
Sangre, good points. This is by far the weakest of the 3 that they gave me and I agree on builders. I would have liked to have had a Burr Oak or Monterrey Oak but no dice (likely too lazy).

I do think that it can be a good tree if I take good care of it (I water all of my trees with tree soaker hoses). I do want to trim one of the forks and trim all the branches that are less than 6 feet in height. But I will call an arborist first.
 
Talk to someone at the Natural Gardener. I know for SOME trees splitting down the middle might be an issue when they're like 100 years old. I have the same issue with Live Oak I planted - I will ask the nursery next time I go there, but I'm sure they'll say it's ok.
 
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