The road goes on forever . . .

Brisketexan

1,000+ Posts
. . and the beauty never ends . . .

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So, took a short 5 day jaunt to West Texas last week . . . the family needed to escape the jurisdiction for a while, and leave some bad juju behind (dog died, car wrecked, washing machine broke, etc.). We stayed at the Indian Lodge at Davis Mountains State Park. Quite the cool place. The weather was a bit hotter than we wanted, so in the heat of the day, we found things to do that didn't involve walking around in the heat. One day, we did the "Scenic Loop Drive" that takes you from Ft. Davis nearly to Valentine, up towards the McDonald Observatory, and back to the state park (about 70 miles). That's where we took the photo above.

It's also where we saw all manner of critters, including this guy -- one of my favorite Texas denizens . . . a vestige of the pleistocene, and a snapshot of the land before we were here:

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We also spent a great day at Balmorhea State Park, just up the road, spending the afternoon swimming in the cool, clear waters of San Solomon Springs. My daughter particularly loved swimming among the Mexican Tetras and Pecos Gambusias, which flitted all about her as she twisted and turned through the emarald-tinted edges of the pool. It, like Barton Springs, is a true Texas treasure. 150 years ago, Apache peach orchards grew on its banks. Now, kids frolic in a CCC-built pool. No pics from there -- too busy swimming and laughing.

Then, on our last full day there, we headed down towards Big Bend. I am ashamed to say that as a 38 year old native Texan, I had never been (nor had my wife -- and it was she who insisted we go down there). We hit Terlingua and Lajitas -- you can keep them. Especially Lajitas -- the huge, bankrupt, out-of-place luxury resort doesn't belong there at all. We did, however, go downriver a ways, where there was a State Park put-in site on the Rio Grande. The kids were excited to see Mexico, and even more excited when I easily chunked a rock over the thin ribbon of muddy green water that was the border, and hit Mexico. "Daddy hit Mexico!" was a jubilant cry from the kiddos.

We then headed to the national park. As the road wound through the park, the landscape changed from the badlands of Terlingua to the Chihuahuan desert landscape I knew and loved (I grew up going to my grandparents ranch south of Chihuahua in Mexico). It was beautiful, but we had no idea what truly waited for us. After checking in, we doubled back to the road to the Chisos Basin. Shortly after turning on that road, this scenery began . . .

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It was as if the earth had sprouted teeth, worn smooth in so by chewing on millenium after millenium of time.

I am a grown man ("I'm a man! I'm almost 40!"). But I had never been to, or seen such a place. I am not ashamed to tell you that as we drove up that road, drawing ever closer to the imposing, green-capped mountains of the Chisos Basin, I teared up. It was breathtaking. It was majestic. It was a vision of one of the greatest cathedrals on earth -- not a cathedral of man's making to glorify God, but one that was a living testament to the glory of God. Man could toil for eternity, and not come close to replicating the divinity of such a place. I have said before that I see God in his creation -- in the laughter of my kids, in the rhythm of the waves, in the whistling wingbeats of ducks coming in to the spread at dawn. Well, I saw Him here -- up close and personal. I needed a reminder about Him, and that reminder hit me upside the head with tons of stone.

To be in such beauty is one thing. To share it is another . . .

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We got to The Window well before sunset, which both gave us a great seat, and a chance to eat our picnic dinner (and the kids a chance to herd the ants wandering around the trail). I don't know if they fully appreciated what they were seeing -- but they will someday.

The sun continued on its westward arc, going . . .

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. . . going . . .

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. . . and gone . . .

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As the sun tucked itself behind the mountains, the air got even cooler. The crowd (except for my yammering kids) was reverent and silent. I could hear the breeze coming down the mountain even before it brushed the back of my neck. It was one of the most beautiful things I had ever seen. Again, tears welled up, thankfully hidden behind my otherwise unnecessary sunglasses.

We loaded up in the car to head back to Ft. Davis, knowing that we'd get there well past the kiddos' bedtime, but not caring. Still, the trip had one disappointment -- we saw EVERY type of critter (well, except bears and mountain lions), but not the ONE thing they wanted to see -- javelinas. My kids were OBSESSED with seeing a javelina. We had been to place after place where they were supposed to be, and not a single glimpse.

Then, at mile marker 6 in the park, I ground to a halt on the gravel shoulder. Within seconds, the pack of javelina I had seen was both in front of and behind the car. The kids were each climbing out of their windows, laughing and pointing to the unflappable javelina, who continued their rooting and pawing. I got a decent shot of this gal . . .

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Of course, every time that javelina came up in conversation, I couldn't help but remember an obscene song I once heard, with a line that went "Miss Lucy had a ***** like a javelina hog . . ." Needless to say, I did not share that with the kids. And when I shared it with the wife, she was, shockingly, disgusted with me. But not surprised.

We will be going back. Next time, we will spend a week at Big Bend. We hardly scratched the surface. But we reminded ourselves at every turn that Texas is a treasure trove of images, experiences, and natural glory. And they are even more valuable when shared with those you love.
 
Man, very nice.
My first child will be here in 2 weeks.... And I can't wait to share with him, this great state we live in.
 
Beautiful pictures, and well-written to boot. Nice job.

I've been out there once, and saw the sunset in the Window. It is almost a religious experience.

I need to go back.
 
How long have they had the seating area at the window?

I went to Big Bend last in May 2002 and on our last day we hiked/ran from our campsite at Chisos Basin to the Window to catch it before sunset. We were all dead from hiking the past few days that we got back to the site, drank a few beers and then took a nap. I got up before sunset and freaked b/c it was our last day and we hadn't done the Window hike yet. A few of us jogged/ran to the Window and got some good shots. Ran across a huge rattlesnake along the way which made us a bit more cautious on the way back.

My camera then wasn't as good as it is now and these pics were scanned in. In the picture below, we hiked all the way to the end of the Window.

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This was earlier in the trip hiking Santa Elena Canyon.

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This is us crossing the Rio Grande by foot into Mexico (and back again) at the Santa Elena Canyon.

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The next day we went into Boquillas, Mexico just like the Robert Earl Keen song "Gringo Honeymoon". This is our boat rider who took us across for a couple of bucks. We took a truck into town instead of a donkey. You can't do that anymore. And in the process Boquillas has become a ghost town. But we were able to go across and had a good time.

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Drinking Coronas at the "bar" in Boquillas and looking over at Sierra del Carmen.

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Finally a nice view of Emory Peak on a hike.

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I knew that was Ft. Davis before I even started reading. The drive from Balmorhea to Ft. Davis to Alpine is the most beautiful in the state.
 
Fied, nice shots. We really want to do the rest of Big Bend -- Emory Peak, Santa Elena, the whole nine yards. I want the kiddos to be old enough to (a) handle the hiking, and (b) appreciate it. But we will do it soon enough.

And the Boquillas thing pisses me off to no end. Yes, of course -- the next great threat to our nation is going to cross at freaking Boquillas, bent on our destruction. Geez. My family has been trotting back and forth across the river for 200 years. To folks who live down there, it's just another river. Their stock drink from it, they cross it if they need something from the other side, and they don't think anything of it. THAT, we stop. Drug lords in Hummers with .50 cals, we don't do crap about. But folks who want to buy a cold beer, or some groceries -- we stop the hell out of them. If it weren't real, it would be comical.

It pisses me off. I grew up going to Mexico, and coming back, as easily as if I was going to Lockhart (and often for the same reason -- the cabrito was always better on the other side).

I want to do a lot more homework on Big Bend, where to camp, how to travel, etc., before we do it again. It seems that it's a place worth doing right.
 
Brisket, Big Bend was a blast. We all look back on that trip some 6 years ago and are so glad we did it. It was almost a last second trip. My boss at the time (he was a prof. at UT and I was doing research for him) was a serious slave driver and he made us work weekends as part of our salary/stipend/tuition. So 6 days a week. Not fun. No vacation either, just the 10 or so UT holidays (UT doesn't have as many holidays as the state). I knew he was going on a conference that Friday (hell he was presenting some of the work I was doing) so I had planned that trip accordingly. But if he had canceled, I would have had to cancel too. It almost fell apart due to that but at the end, was able to pull it off.

We left Austin at 10pm on Thursday night, drove through the night and made it to the front gate at Big Bend a little after 8am when they open up. Camped 3 or 4 nights, can't remember.

The best parts were the trips to Santa Elena Canyon one day and the trip to Boquillas another day. We did a serious hike up to Emory Peak but it kicked our butt. I don't remember if we got to the top either. We were rookies at the hiking thing. We were lucky to bring sunscreen and a milk jug of water let alone snacks and better hiking gear.

I would really like to do another trip there and do a 2 day South Rim hike. Like where you spend the night 1 night on the hike. I just need to find out which of my friends is up for that... no way my wife can do it. That is way too roughing it for her.
 
I'm heading to Big Bend this Thursday with the family in an RV. Unfortunately, we won't be able to make it into the Chisos mountains because they say the roads to steep and curvy but I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the park. Thanks for posting the pictures. I'm looking forward to it even more after seeing them.
 
Thanks for posting the pictures and stories. I bought 40 acres of the great Terlinguia Ranch when it was broken up in 1970. I paid $3,000 for 40 acres and then sold 10 acres for $3,000 so I got 30 acres free. It is just desert floor land but I love it. It truly seems like I belong there when I go. My view is the Christmas mountains.

We have had some really great trips to Big Bend and some not so great. One time we camped on the Rio Grande and while bathing in the river, some folks from the other side broke into our camp and stole equipment. We saw them and chased them but they were too fast for us. I am kind glad that we did not catch them.

But the good times certainly outway the bad. The trip from Lajitas to Presidio is a spectacular drive and it should be mandatory for every Texan to make.

I love that land and wish there was enough easy water accessible on my land and I would live there. You have to drill 1200 feet the last time I asked.

If you want a reasonable and clean place to stay, book a night at the Terlinguia Ranch Resort. It is about 18 miles off the road from Alpine. From there you can drive through the ranch and see some spectacular sights as well.

Thanks for bringing this topic up.
 
Alpine, what a beautiful place. I got on a West Texas real estate kick in the last year and unfortunately land in Apline has gotten expensive (in comparison to the rest of the area). I would still like to buy a spread out that way, but it'll cost roughly a million.
 

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