Texas Brisket in Cook's Illustrated

[Idahorn2]

The August 2007 issue has a recipe for brisket that may help some Yankees, and others, begin to understand Texas' "Q". After their usual trial-and-error method they do manage to come within a mile or two of the right technique on a kettle grill.

They brine, put the temperature at 300 degrees F, use sugar in their rub, and put the fat side down, but they also get a few things right. It may be worth looking at in the store, but I would not buy the issue for the recipe.

 

[#3Rules]

good lord

 

[NCAAFBALLROX]

Brine + fat down = total heresy. A kettle is a problem as well considering they have the financial means to show how to do it properly via indirect... I mean, hell; they could @ least get a bullet 'smoker' & get a bit closer to the real thing.

I do use a *little* sugar in my rub.

 

[brntorng]

In all fairness to Cooks Illustrated, their goal was to try to achieve a good smoked brisket using a typical charcoal grill, a piece of equipment that many of their readers already own. They put the charcoal on one side of the grill and the brisket on the other for indirect heat and build an aluminum shield to keep the heat indirect. They also target 250 degrees in the grill. They start out with the fat side down, but then flip it part way through. They suggest a flat cut brisket since it's smaller, will cook faster, and will fit most grills, but also point out that brining is not required for a point cut brisket since it has more fat. For larger briskets they suggest finishing them in the oven at 325 to get them up to temperature.

Frankly, I don't see anything in the article that shouldn't produce a good brisket. Granted it's not the traditional Texas approach, but it should work just fine. They also acknowledge that Texans use large smokers, so they're completely aware of the "right" way to do it. Cook's Illustrated actually does an impressive amount of research trying various techniques and recipe variations to come up with an excellent recipe. Definitely much more scientific than any other source of cooking information I've found. We've used many of their recipes and techniques and they've all been outstanding.

 

[12thStudStan]

Cooks Illustrated is an excellent read IMO and I’m sure the end product was more than edible, but I don't think they deserve a pass when they say things like, "Besides, a basic kettle grill can do everything a smoker can". To me the article reeks of NE elitist ignorance and disrespect of traditional Texas cue. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't consult with fellow Mass. resident Steve Raichlen on this project.

They declare that they produced an authentic Texas slow cooked brisket using an initial temp of 400 degrees in a kettle grill and finishing it in a 325 degree oven with the aid of brining and water soaked hickory chunks & charcoal briquettes. How many worthy pitmasters in Texas do you know that start cooking their briskets at 400 degrees? How many of those use water soaked hickory chunks and charcoal briquettes as opposed to oak or pecan logs and/or lump charcoal? How many of those brine their brisket?

The guy didn't even know that he wouldn't be able to get a brisket point at the meat market. Then he brags that after cooking 100lbs of beef, he had "the real deal". A guy that has cooked 100lbs of brisket where I come has just started getting his feet wet.

The best part IMO, is when he describes having this epiphany to invent what has been widely known for years in BBQ circles as the Minion Method, where lit fuel is added on top of unlit fuel in order to extend the cooking time before refueling.

The issue is still a good read though. There is a good article on making your own gyros and I couldn’t help but notice that in that article they never claim to have mastered “authentic” restaurant style Greek gyros like they did with Texas cue. There are also good articles on blueberry scones and on garlic presses that are worth reading.

 

[brntorng]

They also put a pan of water under the brisket which turns it into a water smoker. That should help to moderate the heat quite a bit and may explain why their brisket turned out ok despite starting with a high temperature. The online video of them slicing the brisket made it appear to be tender with a decent smoke ring and crust. I've used a similar technique with a gas grill and the result can be very good. Not up to the best you'll get from a smoker, but not bad from my experience.

 

[pigboy1]

CI is a great mag for those who can cook, and those who wish to learn. Highly recomended.