Roof Shingle Patch?

[Tom Anderson]

Got a couple that have a minor crack or two that need patching. Is there a sealant or other substance I can get at Home Depot or Lowe's to do the job? Thanks in advance.

 

[NCAAFBALLROX]

I would say that whether your patch them with a mastic or replace 'em would depend on...
1. Where they are located
a. Steep or uncomfortable slopes = no desire for most homeowners to do a full replacement.
b. Issues around pipe penetrations or around areas like chimneys may not be good candidates for cement repairs.

2. The severity / depth / height of the crack(s), i.e. how far up the crack goes in the shingle & whether it goes through the shingle below it. FYI, the part of a shingle you see is called the "reveal" & the part you don't see & gets covered up by the next course above is called the "headlap" (the sticky parts where the headlap of one shingle meets the sticky part of another shingle is where you place nails & is the "nail line").

3. Appearance or visibility to the street view 1st, other areas that will offend your sensibilities 2nd.

If you are a candidate for something as simple as a cement patch up, don't snot it on top; get a screwdriver (flathead) or pry bar, then break the seal between the two layers of shingles on either side of your split.

If you have any high nails or staples, I like to slide a prybar in between & onto the high item, then using a mallet, I whack the top of the reveal above all of this.

Apply cement above & to the sides of your split, then press down on the affected split area to try & smooth it down (a few lumps with the mallet again).

Your 'typical' black roofing cement products out of a tube (or can) are NOT meant for long term exposure. They are, however, perfect for sealants & cements between layers of stuff.

If exposed, they will @ most give you 1 - 2 years of serviceable lifve before new cracks start to show (heat & blobby in the summer, cold & cracking in the winter).

Feel free to ask more if you need; a photo of the affected area would help as well.

PS: The deeper question is what made the crack happen to begin with. If this is in field, then it was either caused @ the time of installation, you have (possibly) a defective shingle, or (my guess) is your roof might be nearing the end of it's useful & practical life.

 

[chuychanga]

Hey ROX, will please post your website address.

I was reading thru all the info you posted the other day on the other thread and I never saw the address. I don't have any immediate roofing needs today, but I probably will in the next year or two and I live in your neck of the woods. Just looking to educate myself a little bit right now.

 

[NCAAFBALLROX]

 

[BigWill]

Rox, I've used the Henry 208 product for years. now I see a ton of elastomeric product on the store shelves. Is that the way to go these days?

 

[NCAAFBALLROX]

Caulka composition of vehicle and pigment used at ambient temperatures for filling/sealing joints or junctures, that remains elastic for an extended period of time after application.
Caulking
the physical process of sealing a joint or juncture;
sealing and making weather-tight the joints, seams or voids between adjacent surfaces by filling with a sealant.


Elastomer
A macromolecular material that returns rapidly to its approximate initial dimensions and shape after subsequent release of stress.

Elastomeric Coating
a coating that is capable of being stretched at least twice its original length (100 percent elongation) and recovering to its original dimensions.

Source: glossary from roofing.com.

Either will work fine so long as you need them for specific tasks, however as mentioned, your 'generic' roofing cement is a layer between top & bottom shingle sections or joints, not for slopping on top of something where it will be exposed.

I have, on the other hand, (& slightly against my preference) put an exposure proven elastomeric product on a large surface area of metal in an attemmpt to prevent long term rusting issues - it was cheaper than a $ 400.00 cricket, however I explained that I had no warranty expressed or implied for the metal.

Normally, we put a silicone / elastomeric type (clear) coating blobbed over any exposed nail heads & while it does prevent the nail head from rusting, it's really a cosmetic thing because I have yet to see a rusted nail head fully pop off the shaft or allow water to leak through. It's a bit more of a 'feel good' thing I suppose... & I've seen some really old nails up there.