Honda Civic Won't Start

[ACuriae]

Before I post in a Honda forum, I thought I'd try here. We have a 2004 Honda Civic EX with about 110k miles on it. It drove just fine on my wife's last business trip. Typically it isn't driven on weekends and wasn't driven this past weekend. Today my wife tried to start it and nothing (doesn't try to turn over, no clicks, no buzzing, etc.), but the dash lights flicker and make a crackling sound. Tried to jump start it, but nothing.

I put a multimeter to the battery posts and it registered 12.88 volts constant. I tried it again with the positive and another grounding point on the car and it varied between 12.6ish and 13ish. Switch to the battery cables and it registered 12.76 volts constant.

I assumed it was the starter (no turn over, no clicks, no buzzing or whirring), so I bought a new one and replaced it. No change. Same readings with the multimeter. No big loss, though, since the original starter at 110k+ miles is on borrowed time anyway.

Now I feel foolish, so I check the alternator fuse. Now I don't feel so foolish because it's fine. I change it anyway. No change. Same readings with the multimeter.

So now I'm thinking it might be the battery (not wanting to face that it might be the alternator, which is outside my ability to replace). I have my wife crank the car while I check the battery with the multimeter again and it drops to 4.2ish volts. We check my car just for comparison and it drops from 14.1 volts to 12.5 volts when started.

So it's probably the battery, right?

I just wanted to see if anyone here had the same experience. The thing that's throwing me off is that the battery is just over 2 years old (Sears Diehard) combined with no cranks, turn over, clicking, whirring or anything else combined with the weird buzzing/crackling sound and dashboard flickering combined with the cold standing 12.88 volt reading. That's why I assumed it was the starter, not the battery. I could just throw a new battery in there, but I'd rather not spend the $100+ for a new battery if it's the alternator.

Any ideas?

 

[l00p]

Yes, send Accuratehorn a private message or pm me for his phone number. He owns a Honda shop here in Austin and I personally vouch for him and the work they do. I know there are a few others who will do the same if they see this thread. His reputation precedes him in this realm.

Good luck and I hope you get it solved soon.

Accurate Auto is the name of his place, hence his name.

 

[accuratehorn]

Sometimes a battery has 12 volts "surface charge," but won't hold a load. It could be the battery, but it needs to be "load tested" by a device that puts a load on the battery, and the battery should stay above 10 volts for ten seconds. A weak or failing battery will show 12 volts, then drop right down to practically nothing under load.
But since you have a multimeter, check to see if voltage is coming to the starter from the switch. The small push on wire on the starter comes from the switch. Connect the red lead to the wire, the black to ground, have someone turn the key to the start position, and see if 12 volts goes to that wire. If not, the ignition switch has failed, which does happen.
These days, batteries have a hard job to do with all the electric accessories, the computer controls, and especially in Texas with the summer heat and high underhood temperatures. It isn't uncommon for a battery to need replacement after three or four summers in the heat.

 

[BLESSMEHORNS]

did you check the 70 amp fuse. its in the fuse box next to battery. mine has blown several times. if its blown you will get no power anywhere

 

[ACuriae]

Thanks for everyone's help. I tested the ignition lead on the starter motor during start and it only went up to about 4.5ish volts, so I was worried. I double-checked the voltage on the battery and it was at a whopping

6.4ish volts. So I went ahead and put in a new battery and voila (or 'walla' as some HF posters like to say), started up no problem.

I feel a little foolish for having put in the new starter without trying a new battery first, but the old battery's age plus all the other stuff (12.9 volts cold, flickering dash lights, no crank) made me think it wasn't the battery. Now I know. At worst, my wife shouldn't have to worry about the starter going out any time soon.

accurate, we'll be coming to you from now on...as long as we can get the car out of the garage.

P.S. BMH, I didn't put it in the original post, but I did check all of the fuses after I checked the alternator fuse. Thanks for your help!

 

[accuratehorn]

Thanks. I think in general people will find they have to replace their batteries more often than they did in the past. The poor little things are under constant abuse these days.

 

[l00p]

Well, with that being said, do you recommend one over others or are they pretty similiar?

I have heard from people who may or should know that Interstate are truly the best you can get for your money and that Die Hard has lost their luster. They are said not to be what they were at one time.

The ones at the auto supply stores, are they good? Brand names overrated? What say you from your experiences and specifically with Honda's and Acura's?

 

[Aspen1]

Accurate,

Do you happen to work on BMW's? Son drives a 1999, 528i with approximately 90k miles that according to the dealer needs some major $$$ repair work to the power steering and brakes.

 

[accuratehorn]

The problem with batteries is that a few companies make them and other companies put their name on them.
The ones my scanner rep recommends (he sells and trains technicians on scanners and battery testing devices) are U.S. made Deka and A.C. Delco. A.C. Delco is one or the only OE supplier for Hondas now.
There's a Deka warehouse on Benchmark Street, near my shop, and I have been using them.
It's hard to know if one company really is going downhill, or they just got a bad batch of batteries, this seems to go on periodically.

 

[Bevo Incognito]

I will also attest to Accurate Horn's excellent work and totally fair prices.