HELP! Roof repair question, (thanks Charley)

[MrPhlegm]

We had a pine tree fall on our BRAND NEW ROOF during Charley

and it punched 4 15-20 inch diameter holes in our roof.

The roof is Timberline style composition asphalt shingles.

We are having trouble finding a roofer to come and look at it to give us an estimate on fixing it.

and the tarp that I placed over the holes is leaking so I was thinking of repairing it myself tomorrow.

I know I need to cut the holed roof decking out and replace it and put tarpaper down and that kind of stuff and I know how to do that.

I also know how to lay shingles if you are shingling a whole roof.

What I don't know how to do is how to replace just part of the shingles and how to weave (?) them in with the existing shingles on the undamaged part of the roof so that the roof is watertight and it looks good and dosen't look like it was done by an amateur. And I need some advice on how to cut the damaged decking out so that the shingles that I want to weave the replacement shingles into are left so that I CAN weave the other shingles into them.


The area where the holes are is about 15' by 15' and extends to the eave edge on the side gable end. It does not go all the way to the peak or all the way to the bottom eave. One of the holes is in the part of the roof that is over the side eave.


Can anybody give me some advice on how to do this, please?

 

[jmatt]

I recently did this, it's not hard at all.

You just need a flat pry bar. Work from the bottom row up. You just slide the prybar up under the shingle above the one you're taking out - first to loosen the shingles from each other, then to remove the nails (or staples if your roof was put on that way). Usually, you have to remove two rows of nails, because nails from one row will also go through the shingle below it.

Anyway, just work your way up to wherever you want to stop, being extra careful at the last two rows. then put in the new shingles from the bottom up, being careful to line up with the existing shingles. That will help keep your rows straight.

On the last row (the one that has to go under an existing row), you have to VERY CAREFULLY lift up the higher row and nail underneath. If your shingles are very old, they could crack or break. Then use some roofing cement or asphalt to glue the old tabs down on the new shingles.

 

[jmatt]

After I re-read what I wrote, I have one more comment, it is actually much easier than I make it sound. Once you start doing it, you'll understand, especially if you've ever done roofing work (which you said you did).

Mainly, you just have to be careful when you get to the shingles you don't want to remove...

 

[MrPhlegm]

Thanks that was helpful, I think that I can handle that.

What do I do with the vertical seam on the side of where I am going to patch? How do I take those shingles out so that I can put the new ones in and make that seam so that it is watertight and dosen't show? And How do I put the new ones in?

 

[NickDanger]

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If you removed the shingles in a pattern like that you wouldn't have to ease any of them out. It will call for more shingles to be removed, but would seem a better chance of success to me. Just spitballing here. I have no experience with repairing shingles in a situation like yours.

 

[HilltopHorn]

As far as your plywood and tarpaper underneath....at 15 inches in diameter, you probably should be over at least one rafter. Use a sabre saw to clean the hole up, squaring it up with a rafter square, then cut a new piece to go in there. Before you put it in though, cut you some strips of plywood about four inches wide, then put them on the sides of the holes, attaching them to where they are two inches on the old part and two inches left hanging into the hole. Use drywall screws to keep them in place, and screw your new piece in, securing it to the rafter and the strips. This will help keep everything solid, and easier than getting someone inside the attic.

As far as the tarpaper goes, just be sure the lap goes from the top to the bottom.

I am not real sure what seam you are talking about tho.....a little better description would help if you still need some more lame advice like this.

 

[jmatt]

I'm not sure what you mean by vertical seam either.

A picture (see if you can find a picture similar to what you're talking about online maybe?) or better description would help...

 

[MrPhlegm]

The vertical seam would be the seam that runs up and down the roof, If you are a snow skiier it would be the fall line.

The area with the holes is close to the side edge of the roof and that area would not be a problem, the problem is with the other side of the damaged area where the new shingles would need to butt up to or merge in with the rest of the roof.

The holes are halfway up the roof on the left side of the roof, so I would have undamaged shingles above and below the damaged area and 50' of undamaged roof to the right of the damaged area.

What I don't understand is how to make the new shingles that will cover the damaged area, blend in with the undamaged majority of the roof to the right of the damaged area.

 

[NickDanger]

The problem with trying to weave them in is going to be twofold if I understand correctly. Trying to pry every other one up without damaging the overlaying shingles (every other one if I'm on track) without damaging them is going to be difficult. I would imagine that in Fla, you've got a pretty good melting of the roof which is normally a pretty good thing.

Then, if you are successfulling in weaving a mesh together by sliding a new shingle underneath the ones you didn't remove, you pretty much have to nail through the unreplaced shingle and put a dab of roof cement on the nail hole. That doesn't seam like the invisible weave you are hoping for.

I think you are going to have to remove a lot more roofing.

 

[HilltopHorn]

MrP, a couple of other hints. First, if you can get a reciprocating saw from someone, or a rental place, you can buy a long blade for it, 12" or so, slip it between the tarpaper and the shingles and cut through the staples or nails. Much easier, faster and will do less damage to the shingles you want to keep.

Second, you will find the seams you speak of in a pattern much like nick diagrammed. They should not be one over the other, but offset. You will need to take out whole shingles, and it will either result in a paralellogram or triangular shape. Start replacing at the bottom with whole shingles and work your way up. When you reach the upper course, use roofing adhesive to secure them before you tack them in. This stuff is oil based, so use kerosene (if you can get it) to keep things clean.

If your old shingles are stiff, you can use a hot air gun on them to loosen them up, it will prevent tearing at the tab slots.

Finally, if you are having trouble finding shingles that match, you might see if you can locate who the builder used to roof the house. Most times contract roofers will have some spares laying around that might match better. Of couse I am sure they are running like crazy and don't want to deal with do it yourselfers, so i guess take your chances there.

Good luck