gardening question -- putting in a lawn

CJHorn

25+ Posts
First-time poster on this forum with a lawn-planting question.

I am putting in a new lawn. I decided to be a cheapskate and forego putting in turf, and planting seeds instead. However, i've spent approx. $500 so far and a boat-load of time watering [see below] and am wondering whether my money would have been better spent on turf [@ $1.20 per square foot].

Anyway, I live on the coast and the native soil is somewhat sandy, so i laid down a layer of planting soil first.

Then i put down seeds of a "fescue" [sp.?] varietal of grass, suitable [per the label] for "heavy traffic" like my kids playing on the lawn that is to come.

Then i put down topsoil to cover the seeds [approx. 1/4"].

Then i added corn starch to the topsoil covering the seeds, on advice from a neighbor that the corn starch helps the topsoil to retain water.

It's begun to grow. I find that i am having to coax the buried seeds to grow and emerge from the topsoil covering them, with 3-4 heavy waterings per day. But it's working.

The lawn has grown and begun to thicken in many areas [so far, favoring shade] and is expanding into the perimeter [sunnier areas] and growing outward. I find that the full-grown blades of grass provide shade for the adjacent outlaying areas and enable the lawn to advance outward.

The questions are:

1) am i missing anything to get this thing growing?;

2) how do i know when the young lawn is ready for mowing? Once in awhile i'll walk on the new lawn to pull a weed or something, and it leaves footprints in the new blades. Also, the soil beneath the grass feels very loose and non-compacted. It seems like the pushing new blades are loosening the soil as they come up through it. At present, i think the wheels of a lawnmower would put big wheel-ruts into the new lawn.

Anyone? Any feedback appreciated. Once again, i thank the hornfans community for its wealth of collective wisdom [with the exception of the West Mall savages -- ha ha].

Thanks All.
 
Not the best time of year to plant fescue, I would definitely reseed in about 6 weeks, concentrating on the thin areas. Fescue would typically only be grown in shade areas in the southern states. You will be watering it pretty frequently unless you are in a rainy area.

Other than some light fertilizing (which maybe you did) I dont know that there is much more you can do. Id mow it when it hits 3 inches, mow it down to maybe 2 inches. Fescue is typically left a bit longer than something like bermuda.
 
Fescue is a cool weather and/or shade grass so I doubt you'll have much luck with it now. In fact, it's very difficult to start grass in this heat because it will be almost impossible to keep it moist. If it germinates and then dries out , it's toast. Wait until it cools down and seed then. Also, I don't think fescue really does that well in Texas compared to the alternatives. If you want to seed your lawn and have mostly full sun it's hard to beat bermuda.
 
Thanks guys. Two more questions:

1) Is there any waiting period for mowing other than lengthening of the grass? It's 4" or more in many locations [esp. shade], but the grass still seems very fragile when i walk on it and it tears from the soil very easily when i pull interconnected nearby weeds that occasionally spring up with all the watering.

Do i need to worry about the mower damaging the young lawn? It's not a big ride-along mower but a conventional push mower.

2) As suggested I am going to re-seed in a month or two, to help fill in gaps that have not yet "taken" and thicken what's already there. Is it okay to mix varieties, such as bermuda, into the existing lawn of fescue? [Everytime i ponder this i think about the hybrids created by the groundskeeper in Caddieshack.]

Is this mixing of grass varieties okay in the name of overall lawn strength & robustness?

Thanks again guys.

Sincerely,

Watering Like a Fiend
 
Save the trouble and put down st. augustine, plugs or sod. It loves that soil and climate. Give it enough water and it will spread fast.
 
Having bermuda in the sun and fescue in the shade is pretty typical. Fescue does worse the farther south you go though, I dont know where you are at.
 
Whatever does survive--organic fertilizer-- good for developing root systems--can be done anytime yearround
 
Thanks all. I mowed it yesterday and it's starting to look pretty good, although the ground underfoot seems very soft. The mower left a few wheel-ruts, sort of like "bed-head" in the waving grasses, which i lightly raked back out and hope will be temporary.

Now -- is it okay to "compact" the lawn in any fashion, like with one of those pushed spool things that looks like a push mower, even though the grass is already in? Or would that damage the young blades so do nothing?
 
If you were going to roll it, the time to do was just before you seeded it and then again right after you seeded it. At this point let it get well-established, survive a few good rains (no telling how long that could be), and then gradually fill in any significant depressions. At least that's how you'd level bermuda or SA, not sure about fescue. Worst case is you'd have to reseed the low spots after leveling.
 
I will be doing the same thing in about a month, but I will probably hydroseed. Basically have someone spray the seed on with some biodegradeable goop to keep it moist and evenly spread to germinate etc.
 
I'm having a new lawn put in over the next month or so. I have a big yard (2 acres), so it's more than I can tackle.

The guy we hired is putting in the sprinkler system, but before that's done, he's killing the weeds with Roundup. After the sprinkler system is in, he wants us to water frequently to get more weed seeds to germinate. Then comes another round of Roundup.

After all that, he's going to plant (drill) bluegrass seed. We have sandy soil as well, but he advised against adding any top soil. He says we'll have to water a lot to get the bluegrass to germinate because the soil surface will dry quickly, but there are long-term advantages to sandy soil.

The first is that heavy rains will drain instead of pooling up in the yard. The second is that roots can grow nice and deep in sandy soil.

My neighbor just brought in literally a hundred dump truck loads of dirt to completely cover his yard in top soil, and my contractor says I'll have the better lawn. This contractor's putting in both of our sprinkler systems and grass, but the neighbor is just one of those people who think you have to bring in "top soil" regardless.

One huge advantage we have is that our neighborhood association drilled irrigation wells that provide all of us virtually free unlimited water for our sprinkler systems. We also live on the banks of a large river, so all of us are building our sprinkler systems to pump water from the river as an option in case the neighborhood well thing turns sour.

When I lived in Texas, I heard lawn "experts" say that A&M and others were trying to develope varieties of blue grass that would do well in Texas. There just aren't any good drought and shade tolerant grasses that can stand up to the Texas heat. I don't think they're quite there yet.

The guy who's doing our sprinklers and lawn is someone I trust as he put in the grass and sprinklers at a nearby golf course, and it looks pretty damn good. My neighbor on the other side had the same guy put in his lawn last year, and it looks like something from a Scott's lawn fertilizer ad.

The price tag for all this is going to be $9,000. That sounds like a lot, but he's doing a shitload of work. It's not something I'd be willing to do for that price.
 
I don't know how true this is, but a long time cattle rancher told me the other day bermuda starts to go dormant once the temperature rises above 98 degrees F.
 
If it's different than the grass your neighbors have, I recommend bordering your yard with something that will keep out the neighbor's grass and yours from theirs. Something like mow strips.
 
Maintaining 2 acres of lawn on sandy soil? ugh, I have basically a typical size lot on sandy soil and just that much sucks. Watering almost everyday in this heat.
 
Zyosia is really great, and drought resistant.

Personally I like native types of bermuda as they are naturally drought resistant. Also, I PREFER seeds to sod. The reason is that the seed tends to grown in more evenly after time, and the yard is actually more 'even.'
 

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