First NOLA Trip since Katrina

J

JethroTull

25+ Posts
Mrs. Tull and I are making our first trip to New Orleans since Katrina in a few weeks, and I need some help from the "Road" crew.

We honeymooned there 34 years ago, so over the years we have made many trips back, weekend jaunts, business meetings and the occasional Tulane FB game and Final Four. We have enjoyed many of their fine restaurants and tend to go back to our favorites over and over again. This time, we pledged to only eat at those we've never tried. I've been looking at several different New Orleans travel websites for some ideas, but figured this board could supply some good ideas as well.

Over the years, we have eaten (maybe I should say "dined" since this is New Orleans we are talking about) at the following:

Galatoires-Maybe our favorite restaurant in the entire world.
Commander's Palace-No better Sunday brunch.
Mr. B's Bistro-Love the Pasta Jambalaya and make their recipe at home a couple of times a year.
Felix's Oyster Bar-I may have to break the rule for this trip to stop in for a dozen on the half shell.
Gumbo Shop
Sbisa's
Red Fish Grill
Court of Two Sisters
Brennans
Rib Room
Ol' Nawlins Cookery
Tony Moran's
Muriel's Jackson Square
And, of course, Cafe du Monde.

Most of these you'll notice are in the Quarter. That's where we usually stay and most often don't have car having flown over on SW.

You'll notice a couple of glaring omissions from the list. No Emeril restaurants. Would like to try at least one this trip, but am getting radically different opinions on other sites about the price/quality of his establishments, given all the options in New Orleans.

Also, we've never tried K-Paul's. Seems like we headed that way once and found a long line out the door and just decided to do something else. Reviews have usually been positive.

We have three "big dinner nights" available. Am thinking about Susan Spicer's Bayona, Antoine's and one of the Emeril's. Bayona is another one that I'm getting conflicting reports on. They are a Wine Spectator award winner, but some people are unimpressed. Antoine's seems pretty solid.

I have also heard it's worth the trip out to one of the suburbs to a funky place on the water called Mosca's. Shrimp Mosca is supposed to be The Thing to eat if you're in the area.

Anyway, I trust you guys, and gals, and look forward to your opinions. Thanks.
 
On a recent trip we ate at the Pelican Club (in the Quarter) and it was great.

Last visit, we went to Stella and it was very nice as well.

K-Paul's is excellent. If you have never been there, go. Also, I have never had anything but a super meal at Galatoire's or Commander's. We have been to NOLA and it was very good as well, but I didn't think it was as good as some others, especially factoring in price.

We have not been to Bayona or Herbsaint, but have heard great things about both.

My brother lives there and one of his favorites is Upperline (Uptown).

It is awfully hard to screw up down there when it comes to food.
 
I appreciate the suggestions from both of you. I had heard that elsewhere about NOLA so it's good to have confirmation. K-Paul's will be a must this trip, as well.

Thanks.
 
To say Emeril was not a great chef when he opened his flagship restaurant is just not true. I know its popular to bag on people that are famous on TV, but when Emeril left Commander's Palace and started his own place I know people in the food business who said he was the best New Orleans chef ever.

take that for what its worth.

do the oysters in New Orleans come from the gulf? I don't think I would eat any raw shellfish from the Gulf, but that's just me.
 
I at at K-Paul's a few months ago and it was fantastic. The only downside was that every single thing on the menu looked fantastic, so I had trouble deciding. I ended up going for the rabbit with a shrimp creole type sauce. It was delicious.
 
Muffalata at Central Grocery.

Everything else pales in comparison
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I am going to New Orleans as well in a few weeks, first time for me and my wife though. Thanks for the food advice, the laundry list of places provided above should be more than adequate to satisfy where to eat. Any suggestions for things to do besides eat, like the must sees and whatnot?
 
Other than drinking and eating our asses off, we also enjoy:

Audubon Zoo/Park/Aquarium - especially w/kids

French Quarter/Jackson Square

Garden District - just walking or tour

Harrah's - gambling of course

Magazine Street - shopping

I also feel compelled to plug my brother's B&B Maison Perrier in this thread. I am obviously biased, but it is a great place to stay. See the reviews for yourself:

TripAdvisor

He and his wife are also serious foodies and they have been everywhere in the city. They love many of the old standbys, but have a wealth of knowledge about places all over town. Their restuarant advice is always spot on and they are happy to make reservations for you. They also have contacts at many restaurants and can often get people in on busy nights.

My recent trips to New O have been just as fun as many pre-Katrina visits. The Garden District, Quarter and many other areas are in good shape. I continue to hope that the city rebounds from this disaster and maintains its status as a truly historic American city that people from all over visit for food, whiskey and fun.
 
I also disagree about Nola being the only Emeril place worth it

I ate at his flagship place a few years ago and it was fantastic.

I havent been to his Delmonicos in New Orleans but if its as good as his copy in Las Vegas...I would think it would be worth the trip. That steakhouse in vegas is flat amazing and one of the best meals I have ever had in my life
 
i spent about 2.5 months in new orleans last year for business, so i ate at a lot of great places.

k-paul's is great. please go.

gumbo shop is still amazing. we ate there multiple times

galatoires--sounds like you know already

emeril's flagship-- i was let down, but the dessert was scrumptious.

Cuvee--it's not exactly in the quarter, and it close to Mother's (great for lunch). i thought it was fantastic.
 
Went down a month ago and ate at Antoines, Commanders, and Brennans. All great.

But we really liked GW Finns. Its not as old as the others, but was outstanding.
 
I went for my trip back on the last weekend of April and had a great time. The folks here had great suggestions. I'm sure you'll have a blast! Enjoy! Hook'em!
 
Ball:

I forgot Jacques-Imo's is also in my brother's rotation. I haven't been there yet, but I know it is supposed to be good and have a fun atmosphere.
 
jacques-imo's is tits. it is one of two nola restaurants that are programmed on my phone. it used to be three, but that place got katrinaed.

the other is drago's seafood restaurant in metairie. their charbroiled oyster rock the casbah. in my opinion, they are better than oyster rockefeller.
 
hornimal:

We went to Drago's in Metarie around Christmas and those oysters were awesome. I had never seen an oyster operation like the open charbroiling kitchen at that place.

The night we were there, they were hosting the Joe Horn weekly radio show in the bar and the place was crazy packed. We waited forever, but the oysters were worth it.
 
Another vote for K-Paul's and Court of Two Sisters. Phenomenal.

A new place I tried last month was Bourbon House. I liked it so much I went back twice while I was there for a conference in late June.

Sit at the open, circular portion of the bar and ask if Ricky or Cliff are working that day. If you go during the afternoon/early evening they are there shucking ginormous oysters and telling you all about NOLA and which oyster places suck as long as you ask (they were right).

At Bourbon House, all should order the Oysters Fonseca. This is not a raw oyster dish. It is baked and melts in your mouth. It has to be among the finest things I've ever eaten. This dish will make you drool while your sinuses run.

Would love to try Galatoire's!
 
Anyone that bags on Delmonico (NO or Vegas) probably hasn't eaten there. That said, it is a steakhouse (albeit a great one) and I probably won't eat there again considering I live in Dallas and they're everywhere. But it was great.

Palace Cafe is awesome, and I will eat there again (assuming they're still there?).
 
I 2nd Nola's. That is my wife and my favorite restaurant in the Quarter. And try the Nola Martini. and their bread pudding.

I was in NO few weeks ago and discovered a new restaurant to recommend. it's called Brigtsens and is outstanding. A small house with outstanding chef and service. The only problem for JethroTull, it will require a taxi to get there - it's in Uptown close to the Riverbend. Here's the website.
The Link

Good Luck and have fun!

Hook'em!!!
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Commanders, Gallatoire's and Arnaud's.

And NOLA. Never been disappointed there. Unless its a romantic affair, ask to sit at the counter. You'll get a free show, a free sample or two and an ongoing conversation with the cooks.
 
Wow! Thanks for all the great suggestions. There just aren't enough meals in the four days we'll be there to try all the new places you've listed.

I've heard about Brigtsens before, but it'll have to be next time.

I've decided to scratch Bayona off my list. The Wine Spectator's annual restaurant review issue just came out, and Bayona has dropped out of sight. It was in the Specator that I first heard about Susan Spicer and Bayona. Not sure what has happened, but they are no where to be found this year.

NOLA made this list, as did all of the Emeril's family. So, NOLA is on my list. Got to try K-Paul's and Antoine's since we've never done those. (Corporate outing one night at the House of Blues takes up one dinner, or I'd try another of the suggestions here.)

Need to stay longer next time.

Thanks for all the help. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
Due to all the great suggestions I got from this group, I thought I'd let you know how everything turned out. In order of "very, very, very best" to only "best" (I don't think there is a "worst" restaurant in New Orleans) here is the report:

1. NOLA-Absolutely fabulous. As long as they keep the quality up, food and service, I'm eating there every time I'm within 100 miles. BBQ shrimp appetizer, salads, red fish and grilled amberjack (nightly special), dessert, NOLA coffees were each and every one a serious winner. Wine list showed they were worthy of the Spectator's rating. Maybe the friendliest, most attentive waitstaff we have ever experienced. Mrs. Tull gets up to go the Ladies room, waiter calls after her by name once or twice to get her attention, and then has her take his arm as he escorts her to the Ladies room. It might have been way too pretentious, but he was smiling and joking with her along the way. (She said it would have been creepy if he had hung around to escort her back to the table, but he didn't.) Go, go, go if you ever get the chance.

2. Red Fish Grill- This wasn't on the list, because we have eaten here a couple of times before and we were only going to try new places. However, we were scheduled for K-Paul's on the Sunday night we were in town and THEY ARE CLOSED on Sundays. So, we had to have a backup plan. This place has never disappointed. Gumbo, oysters on the half shell and red fish (again) with butter crab sauce on top were all outstanding.

3. Grand Isle- Another surprise that wasn't on the list originally. We hit this brand new spot for lunch one day because it was raining and it was close by. Just opened a month ago, I think. Owner was named Louisiana Restauratuer of the Year in 2006. This place is in new space on Convention Center Drive just across from the Hilton. Great Oyster Po-boy with the coldest beer we had while in NO. Mrs. Tull had a crab meat salad with a couple of glasses of Prosecco and she was a happy camper. Beautiful interior, cool old fishing pictures on the wall, great oyster bar up front and a manager working his butt off during the lunch rush helping out everywhere.

4. Court of Two Sisters- This was Sunday brunch and I'll never get tired of it. Unfortunately, it was raining (again-I think it followed us over from Texas) so they were not seating in the courtyard. That kind of takes away from the ambience, but the bloody marys and the jazz combo and the food just make for a great start to a Sunday.

5. Antoine's- I have to admit I was a little disappointed, having heard so much about it over the years. The food was good and the service acceptable, but it just fell a little bit short. I had to have their famous Oysters Rockefeller, and they were "OK." With all the seafood we ate while there, we went with the filet mignon and lamb chops at Antoine's. Maybe we should have had fish, but I think I read in a guide somewhere that their meat dishes were actually better than their fish dishes. Anyway, I think I'll have to count this one as "been there, done that" now. There are just too many great places to chose from in NO.

I didn't rank it, but we also made the obligatory trip to Cafe du Monde just as we do every time we go. Will never get tired of it, even if they have gone to styrofoam cups unless you buy the souvenir ceramic mug.

Mrs. Tull also hit Bourbon House one day for lunch while I was in meetings. Since I didn't go I can't rank it. She pronounced her Red Fish (again!) in butter crab sauce as good as the others she had and recommended we try it for dinner the next time.

Anyway, that's the report and I can't wait to go back. Everyone we encountered was very appreciative of people coming to New Orleans and couldn't have been nicer. We had been warned about escalating crime, but when it wasn't raining we walked everywhere including on several late nights and never felt threatened.

If you haven't been lately, go. They'll appreciate it and you'll love it.
 
A little late, but I also second Cuvee. The owner has another restaurant on the North Shore in Covington called Dakota's that is also fantastic.
 
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