Drill bit question

O

OrangeBlooded

500+ Posts
I need to cut through about 1/8" ceramic tile before I hit drywall. But the hole needs to be 3/4". I am having a hell of a time locating a bit that big for tile. and I have tried just about every store/tile distributor, etc. any suggestions?

Also, I have heard that a masonry bit would work for ceramic tile, but kind of skeptical about that. thoughts?

Thanks in advance
 
3/4" is a pretty big hole to be drilling into tile, what is the hole for?

I did find these large drill bits, but none are as large as you need:

The Link

Quick primer on drilling into tile:

The Link

I also found this (It's not very descriptive though...) :

The Link
 
we have ceramic tile on our kitchen walls. I am installing a microwave above the stove and, unfortunately, do not have studs were I need to drill the holes to mount the bracket, thus the larger hole for the "molly-type" bracket that will hold the bolt in place on the dry wall. it's an unfortunate situation and one that is becoming more and more god damn frustrating with each passing hour. thanks for the links
 
It sounds like the tile is going to have to be behind the microwave anywave, isn't it? Can't you just trash the tile?
 
Microwaves are too heavy for the molly. Redrill the bracket to fit your stud locations. It really, really needs to catch at least one stud.
 
Further, the standard microwave is 30", so you will almost certainly catch two. I have seen two types of brackets, one with "arms" that stick out that the unit slides on, that is, there are slots in the unit to accommodate the arms, and ones with a clip on the bottom of the bracket that the unit "hooks" on, and bolts in the top that come down from inside the cabinet above. Whatcha got?
 
just sink a couple of 1 5/8" drywall screws through the hanger plate on each stud. You'll need to predrill them with a 1/4" masonry bit, and then you'll be tits.

Keep in mind that a microwave needs a 15 amp dedicated circuit. A standard vent hood circuit probably won't be adequate.
 
Wouldn't one of those hole saws with the diamond encrusted cutting edge work?

Also, I am no electrician either but Ohms Law says

watts / voltage = amps

1000watt microwave / 120v =8.3 amp draw which probably would leave plenty left over for the vent and light on a typical 15 amp service.

I would say the existing branch would be ok.
 
A couple of alternative ideas as I have done this a couple of times.

1) if you can catch one stud you can probably get away with predrilling holes and using screws into expansion shields for the other sides.

This should work if you have blue board behind the tile (as you should) or sheet rock (wich hopefully you don't

2) on one I did the wall had both studs so far to the outside I ended up getting a piece of plywood, cutting it to size and just screwing it to the studs to use as a mounting plate, thes drilled holes for shields to screw into for the mounting plate.

3) THE REAL problem is fabricating, altering and aligning the ductwork for the outside exhaust. LOOK AT THIS FIRST!!!!! You will probably need to get a rectangle to circular fitting to get started and some foil tape to seal the gaps.

Good luck, but preplanning goes a LONG way on this project..... the first one I hung and rehung three times to get the ductwork perfect and microwave level.
mad.gif
 
You know BigWill that's just such a sad commentary on your view of life. You are destined to see the world as a glass half-full and so shall life treat you. The newer ones have a fan that sucks up from the bottom and vents out of the top at least 12 inches higher and even though it often whooshes the "vented" air right back down on the cook, sometimes it will waft greasy, hot air onto the cabinet doors up above. Shame on you for your bitter comments.
 
Nick, I'm just bitter about the gay-marriage deal. Since the queers won't be destroying marriage as we know it, it looks like I'm going to be stuck with my pain-in-the-*** wife for the forseeable future.

Anyway, the algebra may be correct on the electrical, but code out here requires the dedicated circuit.
 
Big Will- Yes they all "self vent" which means they just shoot the same hot, grease and smoke filled air right back into the kitchen....

OR- you can take the extra time and effort and connect to the existing exhaust venting that any good contractor originally built into the home.

It takes more effort, but it's worth it!
 
Orangeblooded!!!!!!

IMPORTANT!!!!

IF you opt to route the exhaust into the existing duct the make sure and REMOVE the metal plate that covered the vertical exhaust. This plate forces the air out the front vent back into the kitchen.

The one thing you DO NOT want to do is go to the effort of routing the ductwork and connecting it only to find out you forgot to remove the plate and that the air is recirculating into the kitchen.... I came VERY close to accidentally doing this the first time i did this for my father-in-law.
 
Horn4life,

thanks. i have already done this part. i will be exhausting through the vertical vent that is already there when our house was built. I have rotated the "venting mechanism" to reflect the vertical venting. there is a metalflap that go up when vent is on and goes back down when turned off.
 
I bought this ridiculous vent hood from a place in Austin that does custom copper, and it could suck chrome of a trailer hitch. If a mosquito gets within about 3 feet of it, bye-bye.
 
bought a 1/2" tile bit. it worked. made the hole bigger and worked fine. got the MV installed no problems. thanks for your suggestions/advice.
hookem.gif
 
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