building a privacy fence

H

Hobbes

25+ Posts
This weekend I removed the old chain-link fence the runs along the back of my property. I plan to build a privacy fence 55 ft long from one corner of the yard to the edge of my garage.

Questions:

1. I want to use 1x6 for the planks. The fence will be up against several legustrums(sp?) and china berry trees. How much better is cedar?

2. Can I have 8 feet between posts? I am looking hard at 6"x6" posts but will probably go with 4"x4."

3. I want the fence to be at least 74" tall. A couple inches of space at the bottom is not a concern. Can I use the 8' length posts? Is 20-22" of depth enough to sink the posts? What diameter should I dig the post holes?

4. I plan to paint the fence. It is in a shaded area and I want it to "blend" in. Probably black or dark dark green with brown posts. Will this be stupid? Does paint prolong the life odf the fence?


Thank you
 
1) how much better is cedar as opposed to what? Better than Doug Fir, about the same as redwood

2) 8 feet is fine for spacing

3) Yes, that's deep enough with concrete. Dig the holes as small as possible, leaving at least 3 inches on each side of the post for concrete. Consider using steel posts and hardware instead of wood.

4) cedar will "bleed" through the paint. Use a solid color stain instead.
 
Cedar, if treated with wood preservative, will last as long as PT (pressure treated) pine. I recently rebuilt 60' of fence myself. Cedar is straighter and far less likely to subsequently warp. It also looks much better. I paid $1.99 per 1"x5.5"x6' picket at Home Depot for the cedar and saw PT pine pickets for $1.19, some 40% less.

I'd use PT pine 2"x4"s for the rails and PT 4"x4"s for the posts. I did not replace the posts, so I cannot tell you the proper length of the posts and the appropriate hole depth. I would guess 8' posts with 2.5' - 3' buried and 5' - 5.5' above ground.

I'd recommed deck screws as opposed to hot-dipped galvanized nails. Pickets, particularly PT pine, work themselves loose over time.

If you want to raise the fence beyond 6', a common practice is to use a 1"x6" PT pine "rot board" at the bottom. I used a PT deck board which I think was 9/8"x6" and it looks quite nice due to the rounded edge. Moisture from grass will make the first half foot quite susceptible to rotting, so use something that is durable, cheap, and can be replaced in 10 years. This should bring your height up to about 78".

Perhaps it was overkill, but I put a 2"x6" PT board behind the rot board and had it 2" higher than the rot board. I used the top of the 2x6 to attach (screw) the bottom of the pickets to. I had rails at about 30" and 66", so I was putting screws in at three different levels. (I have two large dogs.)

Good luck digging the post holes.
 
Hobbes,

Set your posts as deep as possible and you wont have any trouble with your fence "leaning". Rot board is a good idea too because once you set it level, then you can set your pickets on top of it and be fairly certain that the fence top will be be level as well. Instead of the screws, which is a good idea just a lot of work, rent a coil nailer from a rental place and shoot 2" ring shanked coated nails to fasten your pickets. Nails will not back out and the job will go a lot faster.

Good luck,

The Republic of Texas

P.S. Once you stain or paint the fence, be ready to do the same about every two years.
 
Thanks for the replies fellas.

How about using a hole power auger? I'm in San Antonio which has a nice coliche/rock/clay amalgamation about 6" under the topsoil. Home Depot rents these babies for $35. Can a novice handle one of these or will I lose a foot?
 
For the power auger, get the two-man version & bribe a buddy or two to help you. As for if you need it, try digging your first hole by hand to see how long it takes you. Since your fence is only 55 ft long, you'll be digging 7 holes.

Before digging, make sure to have power/water/electric/gas/cable tv/phone lines marked so you don't go destroying one whilt digging.
 
Hobbes,

Go to a regular tool rental place and rent an auger that has a pull behind cart and a 8-10' metal pipe (anti kickback bar) attached to the auger head. You can dig the holes yourself and it will be much safer. Those one-two man hand held augers are really dangerous.

Good luck and hurry up. Its getting too damn hot to be doing this kind of work yourself.

The Republic of Texas
 
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