Building a deck

A

AlwaysTexas

25+ Posts
We decided over the weekend that we will be building a deck in February. We've been to Lowe's to price things out, so we'll know what we're looking at. We're planning to use the "pier" system, so no digging or cement. Now I have a few questions for those that have been through this.

Can anyone offer opinions on this system?
Are there any recommendations on where to get treated lumber cheaper than Lowe's or Home Depot in the DFW area?
Any suggestions on how to connect the posts to the deck floor? He found some brackets that will work, but we're open to suggestions.

Any other general advice on building decks would be appreciated.
 
I've never built a deck when I didn't dig postholes and cement them in -- I'm too worried that I would get sagging from soil getting packed down. I'd probably recommend postholes and cement -- a lot more work, I know, but worth it in the long run.

I attach the beams (2x6 or 2x8) with galvanized lag bolts to the posts, then between the beams, I put joists. The joists I attach with joist hangers to the beams. The joists are 2x6. All of this lumber (underneath the deck) is treated pine.

Now, I'd recommend cedar or redwood for the deck itself. Both last a long time, and there is much less of a chance of splitting or splinters with those materials (versus treated pine). I'd screw the deck boards to the joists versus nailing.

Finally, I would keep it simple. One level (if possible), deck boards all going the same way. Spend a lot of time planning, and it will save a ton of time.
 
Runner covered that pretty well. Definitly use the treated pine for all framing but avoid it like the plague when it comes to the actual decking facia etc. Pine looks good right up until the Texas sun hits and warps and splits it to hell.

Oh yeah ! DIG THE HOLES ! There is a better than good chance that you will be sorry if you don't.
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LIke has been said if you want the deck to actually look really good after 6 months then treated pine won cut it. The Pine will crack and curl some. I would also go for the no screw look on the deck planks. It makes a big difference in the finish.
 
Thanks for the tips! As it turns out, the city inspectors won't let us use the pier blocks, so we will be digging after all. I'm now off in search of reasonably priced redwood or cedar, and staying optimistic that it won't be cost-prohibitive to do it that way.
 
Check out the composite deck planking. Our neighbors rebuilt their deck with it two years ago and couldn't be happier. Never needs staining, last forever. When we redo our deck, that's what I'm using despite the initial extra expense.
 
If I ever have to build a deck from scratch I'm going to bite a huge bullet & go with ipe (rhymes w/ "ebay") wood. A former boss of mine had a custom ipe deck built & it was just phenomenal. It's beautiful & all but impervious to rot, insects & even fire.

Ipe decks

It's expensive but is worth it.
 
The newer composites are pretty darn sharp and will more than pay for themselves over time if you plan to stay in the house for any length of time.
 
I believe ipe is a ***** to install --- requiring you to predrill all screw holes. Unless you're looking at a 2' x 2' or so deck, that's a lot of extra work.
 
Thanks again for the input. Ipe is cost-prohibitive, and much more labor intensive than I had intended. We're going to use cedar for the deck, and are now in the market for cedar rails that are pre-made.
 
True about city inspectors, I just put a 10 by 12 building right in my back easement. Could come back to bight me in the *** but its been there a couple years now. Plus if they mess with me then I will point to the 10 or so of my neighbors that have them there as well.
 
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