It really all depends on what you are looking to do. The wife and I spent 4 days on Ambergris Caye (San Pedro) and 3 days in the Cayo District (San Ignacio.) Ambergris was great! There is not much beach activity due to the barrier reef off the coast. We fished the reef and snorkeled. If you are a diver, you can go to the blue hole and dive. We did rent a golf cart while there just so we could see both ends of the island but for the town of San Pedro you can walk. There were also bars to party at night but we just hung out on our own. Good food, good people and very relaxing.
In the Cayo ditrict we stayed at the Hidden Valley Inn. It is a 12 cottage, 7200 acre private reserve with 7 or 8 water falls on property. Google "butterfly falls belize" and you will see one of the falls. With only 12 rooms you pretty much have all the falls to yourself. The Inn had a phone in the main lobby and that was it. No tv's in the room and the inn itself ran off a generator for electricity. From the inn you can go explore caves or Mayan ruins.
If money is no expense look at "Blancaneaux Lodge" it is owned by Francis Ford Coppola. We stopped by and had a beer at the bar. Very nice!
When on the main land we rented a car and drove ourselves. The highways were well marked and we had no trouble finding our way. Just be prepared once you get off the highway the road gets very bumpy.
Others have said the Placencia area of Belize is also very nice but have not been there, yet. Maybe next time.
I hope this helps! I hope you enjoy Belize as much as we did!
I just got back from an October trip with 2 buddies. We spent part of out trip in the jungle, the other half on the beach. You will definitely want to spend at least one night doing this:
At the time, his resort was closed for remodeling, but they were still able to book overnights in the jungle. I'm telling you, the jungle trip is pretty cool. Some highlights:
1. 300 ft free rappel into sinkhole
2. another 200-300 ft rock climb descent to cave opening/river
3. Mayan skulls, teeth, femurs, pots, etc. This group has one of the only licenses to even enter the cave, so most of this stuff is completely untouched.
4. swimming in a freshwater cave pool in the dark
5. hiking 1/4 mile into cave along river bed.
6. sliding down 50ft clay hill inside cave in complete darkness
7. sleeping in covered hammock underneathe limestone overhang
8. jungle wildlife
9. very cool, knowledgeable guides (locals)
This part of our trip far exceeded anything we did on the beach. We spent about 3 days diving, fishing, etc which was great. But the jungle was something I'll never forget.
FYI, if you want adaventure and not tourism, stay away from Ambergis. It's by far the most touristy part of BZE. Placencia, Hopkins (where we went for beach part), smaller cayes are a better option IMO.
Leave Belize City as soon as you land, do not go back until your flight back to the states. We rented a car which was affordable and allowed us to see almost the entire country in about 5 days. Make sure to stop at Cheers right outside of Belize City on the Western Highway. Really good food and a nice place to have a beer.
We stayed at the Jaguar Reef in Hopkins which was very nice, although I would stay on one of the cayes if I did the trip again (just not Ambergis). Jaguar Reef was kind of a honeymoon type spot. Not exactly great for 3 dudes, but it didn't matter b/c we were so tired from the jungle trip (make sure to do jungle part first, as you will be aching for the beach after a couple days camping).
The people of BZE are very nice and simple. There's is hardly any panhandling. All speak English and take US $$.
You will have your choice of one beer, Belikin (pretty good). Load up on the Marie Sharp's hot sauce. Put it on everything, it's tasty. Enjoy and report back.